Kathmandu
Tuesday, August 26, 2025

Climber completes sea-to-Everest ascent in under four days

May 22, 2025
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KATHMANDU: Andrew Ushakov, a U.S.-based climber originally from Russia, has completed a rapid ascent from sea level to the summit of Mt. Everest in 3 days, 23 hours, and 7 minutes, using traditional bottled oxygen.

The ascent began in New York City on May 15 and concluded on the summit of Everest at 9:22 AM on May 19.This timeline represents one of the fastest known transitions from sea level to Everest’s 8,848-meter summit.

Ushakov undertook the challenge with the support of Elite Exped, a Nepal-based expedition company, and a team of experienced Sherpa guides and support staff. According to expedition details, Ushakov flew from New York to Kathmandu, and then to Everest Base Camp before beginning the climb.

He utilized hypoxic training for acclimatization ahead of the journey, reportedly spending over 400 hours in a hypoxic tent. The team assisting Ushakov included guides Tejan Gurung, Pur Bahadur Gurung, Bidhan Shrestha, Sujal Gurung, KiTemba Sherpa, and Pemba Chhewang Sherpa, alongside porters, kitchen staff, and base camp crew.

Ushakov’s climb took place during the regular spring climbing window on Everest. Unlike traditional expeditions that span over a month due to extended acclimatization, his approach was built around rapid ascent strategies. He used bottled oxygen during the climb and adhered to safety protocols, as per the expedition company.

Ushakov had previously attempted a similar feat in 2024 but turned back due to vision issues and deteriorating weather. During that attempt, he crossed paths with mountaineer Nirmal ‘Nims’ Purja, who later became involved in planning Ushakov’s 2025 climb through his guiding company.

Ushakov, who began high-altitude climbing in 2020, stated that the effort was not intended to break existing records but to test the limits of human endurance under controlled and supported conditions. The current record for fastest round-trip (sea level to summit and back) is held by Roxanne Vogel, who completed it in 14 days in 2019.

In 2025, Ushakov had recently recovered from serious injuries sustained during an avalanche in Ecuador. He was medically cleared to climb Everest after a period of rehabilitation. Additional precautions were reportedly taken during the climb to address health and safety concerns stemming from those injuries.

Following the summit, Ushakov expressed interest in attempting K2, the world’s second-highest mountain. He acknowledged the role of his guiding team in making the ascent possible, citing their contingency planning and support.

While Ushakov’s ascent is not officially certified as a speed record by climbing regulatory bodies, the expedition adds to a growing trend of rapid ascents using logistics-heavy, oxygen-assisted climbing models.