KATHMANDU: “Love me like tea
If I don’t sink like a biscuit, then tell me…”
—From Chiyamaya’s TikTok
Tea drinkers don’t just drink tea; they immerse in the sip and have such conversations with their loved ones.
Occasionally, they even have monologues with themselves—
“Your love is like the last sip of tea; I neither want to end it, nor leave it just like that.”
This dialogue is written on the notice board of ‘Tea Sewa’ in Budhanagar, Kathmandu.
If you are a tea lover who enjoys exploring new flavors, you may have seen or heard such scenes and conversations in tea houses. These dialogues, monologues, and reflections show that tea houses nowadays are no longer limited to being simple shops; they have also become spaces to express the thoughts, style, and personal-public emotions of the younger generation.
This unique feature has led to a rapid increase of new tea houses in city squares and alleys. Customers are trying different new tea flavors. While some older tea houses are already established, it is interesting that even newly opened tea houses succeed in attracting customers from day one. City tea houses are no longer limited to the tea trade—they have become hubs for conversations.
In the past, small tea shops facilitated direct conversations between shopkeepers and customers, but now such interactions often happen differently via social media.
Customers take photos of tea and snacks and post them online, tagging the tea house. Tea houses, in turn, capture the customers’ activities and share them on their social media. Both sides posting, tagging, liking, sharing, and commenting on social media enriches relationships through virtual spaces.
According to Tirtha Bahadur Shrestha’s article in ‘Nepal: Nakhuleka Pata,’ “Let’s cultivate the habit of drinking tea!”
Although tea cultivation started in Nepal around 150 years ago, the credit for introducing its taste to the tongues of Kathmandu residents goes to the shop near Dharhara in Sundhara around 1943.
Earlier, some Nepali merchants had already served buttered Tibetan tea at home, but at this shop, tea with milk and sugar was available.”
Martin Chautari’s publication ‘Nepal in the Long Nineteen-Fifties’ includes Prabhas Gautam’s research on Tilauri Maila’s tea shop, which started in the 1930s near Dharhara.
By the 1940s–50s, this shop, serving tea and snacks, became a popular meeting point for political activists, footballers, students, and soldiers.
Changing tea shops
Turning right from Taukhel Chowk in Lalitpur and walking 300 meters, you will find a tea house that has won customer affection from day one.
Opened on the eve of the New Year, this ‘Tea Stop’ attracts customers from Kathmandu, Bhaktapur, and even Panauti. It was started by three local youths from Godavari with a small loan. Within less than two months, the owners are confident about opening a new branch.
While new tea houses are increasing, established tea shops are busy expanding branches. In May, ‘Chiya Maya’ opened its third branch in Gairidhara, Kathmandu. Even at the new branch, customer footfall is rising. The ‘Chiya Maya’ that started in Jhamsikhel at the English New Year may expand to other areas of the valley due to high customer demand.
Poetry reading also happens at ‘Chiyawala’ and ‘Chiya Maya’. Some tea houses offer books and games in addition to food. To entertain the younger crowd, they provide Ludo, chess, Uno, and other games. While chatting, reading, or playing, customers unknowingly order “another cup of tea,” “another pack of cigarettes,” or “another hookah.”
Seven decades ago, ‘Chiyawala’ brought its legacy from Butwal to Kathmandu and has now expanded to four branches in Thapathali, Chabahil, Budhanagar, and Bakhundol. Five years ago, ‘Chiyadani’ started in Pokhara and opened one branch in Kathmandu and two in Chitwan.
In every corner of Kathmandu, new tea houses continue to open, reflecting the growing demand and expansion. Tea house popularity is no longer limited to the capital; it has spread to Pokhara, Chitwan, Butwal, Dharan, Biratnagar, and other cities. Some tea houses first established themselves in Kathmandu before expanding elsewhere, while others built their brand outside before entering the capital.
Some brand popularity has even created demand for international franchises. Rajesh Sharma, who runs ‘Pokharel Matka Chiya Galli’ in Anamnagar, is opening a franchise in Qatar this year. His shop offers 19 types of tea.
As tea shops spread from villages to cities, accessibility has increased. Anthropologist Suresh Dhakal says tea houses are developing as interactive spaces. He recalls, “When I was young, children weren’t allowed to drink tea. We had to go all the way to Chabahil, where only three or four tea shops existed. Drinking tea with bread there felt like a big achievement.”
The old meaning of ‘drinking tea’ gradually evolved into a space for chatting and exchanging information. Dhakal notes that modern tea houses provide space for young people and students, not just for quenching tea cravings, but for social interaction. In city tea houses, customers discuss new projects, startups, and business ideas.
From local markets to abroad, the spread of tea brands and flavors shows the appeal and demand of the tea business. Tea is popular in formal and informal gatherings; probably, after water, it is the most consumed drink. Its widespread consumption makes it a perennial business with comparatively lower investment and risk, which is why it has become an attractive startup for many young people. Most of these ventures involve collaboration and investment among two or more partners.
With the growth of urban café culture, the demand for affordable tea-and-snack spots increased, leading to more tea houses. Budget-friendliness for both owners and customers is a major reason for the popularity of new-style tea houses.
Ganeshdev Pandey, owner of leading tea brand ‘Chiyawala,’ says, “Café culture grew, cafés became expensive, and society sought alternatives. That’s why new types of tea houses emerged.”
‘Tea Stop’ was started by Babin Silwal, Sameer Bista, and another friend. Babin says, “We were always wandering. When we discussed doing something, this seemed like a low-risk, low-investment business. Running it with friends made us brave enough to try even if it wasn’t perfect.”
Babin spent Rs 2.5 million to open ‘Tea Stop’. Shubham Ghimire, owner of ‘Chiya Maya,’ had been worried about spending too much in cafés in Butwal. He felt the need for a budget-friendly, healthy place for meals and meetups. “From experience, I knew a place like this would work. I named the Kathmandu branch ‘Chiya Maya’ from the original ‘Chiyaholic’ in Butwal.”
These tea houses also provide employment opportunities for young people. Shubham was 21 when he started ‘Chiyaholic’ in Sukhhanagar, Butwal. The three owners of ‘Tea Stop’ are all under 25.
Investors include celebrities from the film and sports fields. Ganeshdev Pandey, of ‘Chiyawala,’ is a director of films like ‘Gajabaja,’ ‘Manjari,’ and ‘Julebi.’ Sanjog Koirala, founder of ‘Chiya Adda’ in central Kathmandu, is active in filmmaking and acting. Footballers Kiran Chemjong and Manasajan Rajbhandari also run ‘Chiya Time’.
In a context of youth migration abroad, tea business provides a profitable local alternative. Working within the country, making profit, and sending positive societal messages is appreciated. Shubham says domestic job creation is gratifying. He believes tea business is at its peak; demand is growing, and expansion is underway in Kathmandu and Butwal.
Rajesh, owner of ‘Pokharel Matka Chiya Galli,’ says, “Earlier, people frowned at tea businesses. Today, I proudly wear a T-shirt with the shop’s name during family events.”
Competition in taste and service
In traditional village tea shops, tea was brewed on clay stoves, and seating was makeshift. City shops had small rooms serving tea, donuts, eggs, and chickpeas. Only milk and black tea were available. Customers spent an hour and left. Modern tea houses are larger, where customers can chat for hours.
Variety has increased, but young entrepreneurs preserve the essence of traditional tea shops. The blend of new and traditional defines modern tea houses. New tea houses like ‘Chiyawala,’ ‘Matka Chiya Baneshwar,’ ‘Pokharel Matka Chiya Galli,’ ‘Chiya Maya,’ ‘Kitli Chiya,’ ‘Tandoori Chiyaholic,’ ‘Chiya Adda,’ ‘Tea-Tales,’ ‘Arabi Chiya,’ ‘Irani Chiya,’ ‘Chiya Batika,’ ‘Chiya Mandala,’ ‘Chiya Chautari,’ ‘Chiya Sansar,’ and ‘Chiya Dailo’ illustrate this.
In a city dominated by foreign-named schools and colleges, tea houses emphasize Nepali words and names, fostering originality. Some shop names are meaningful; some emotional. ‘Chiya Maya’ is named after the owner’s mother, and the menu even includes ‘Maya Chiya.’ Ganesh of ‘Chiyawala’ named his menu items after his father. His most popular tea is the ‘Pokharel Local Chiya.’
Many shops use slogans alongside names. At Shankhamul, ‘Chiyadani’ displays: “Strong Tea, Deep Love.” On ‘Chiya Maya’ walls: “Tea is Love.” At Bhimsengola Chowk, the menu first catches the eye: “Tea, Friends, and Chat.”
Young customers are creative, innovative, and distinct, reflected in modern tea houses. Spacious layouts and decor, plants, props, and seating under trees enhance the ambience. ‘Chiyawala’ leads in original design and ambiance creation.
“I like natural, eco-friendly things. I created the ambiance to match,” Ganesh says. “There’s a connection between customers and place. But our core idea is selling tea, not the place. Tea is our family business; our style is unique.”
Many tea houses creatively reuse bamboo, straw, mud, old windows, doors, glass, wood, lanterns, and cameras. ‘Tea Stop’ uses bamboo and straw for counters and vintage decor.
‘Tea Stop’ has a green Jeep in the middle, used as seating. Babin bought it for Rs 150,000. “I liked cars and connected it with tea business. It now attracts customers who take photos sitting in it.”
These photos naturally spread on social media, drawing more customers. Rajesh Sharma of ‘Pokharel Matka Chiya Galli’ has been in tea business since 2000. His shop was previously ‘Pokhareli Bakery’. After two decades of selling tea, he went to Europe in 2022, learned new ideas, and returned. He renamed his shop and now sells 19 varieties of tea at once, planning to add 10 more.
Tea houses also integrate local cuisine, reflecting Nepal’s cultural diversity. ‘Chiyaholic’ uses red mud walls, bamboo, and local ingredients, evoking rural nostalgia. Customers experience authentic village flavors in tea and snacks.
The competition between food, ambiance, props, and aesthetics creates a sense of comfort for customers, encouraging repeat visits. From cutting tea to Terai tea, roasted milk tea, and snacks like batuk, chukauni, millet, and buckwheat, regional flavors merge into a national taste. Some flavors evoke memories of missed time and distant geography.