Kathmandu
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Chinese climber Gexi Luori achieves historic Everest and Lhotse double summit

May 27, 2026
2 MIN READ
Photo: Seven Summit Treks
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KATHMANDU: In a stunning display of endurance and high-altitude prowess, Chinese climber Gexi Luori has etched his name into mountaineering history.

Operating under the expedition banner of Seven Summit Treks, Luori completed a historic “double-double” summit season, successfully scaling both Mount Everest and Mount Lhotse (8,516m) twice within a single spring window.

The achievement marks a groundbreaking first in Himalayan mountaineering history.

Luori’s relentless push across the world’s highest peaks unfolded over a grueling 10-day period. His precise summit timeline indicates a masterfully executed logistical and physical feat: May 17: Mount Everest – 07:15 AM, May 18: Mount Lhotse – 07:50 AM, May 25: Mount Lhotse – 06:45 AM, May 27: Mount Everest – 03:30 AM.

Beyond the sheer volume of high-altitude climbs, Luori set a blistering new milestone for consecutive ascents of the world’s highest peak. He managed to stand on the summit of Mount Everest twice with just 9 days, 20 hours, and 15 minutes separating the two achievements—all while sandwiching two separate ascents of Lhotse in between.

“Gexi has set a powerful new milestone,” Seven Summit Treks stated in an official release. “We warmly congratulate him on this extraordinary performance at the very end of the season and wish him a safe descent back to Base Camp.”

The mountaineering community has widely lauded the feat, which redefines the boundaries of back-to-back 8,000-meter peak expeditions. Support teams at Base Camp are currently monitoring Luori’s progress as he safely navigates his descent from the death zone following his final Everest summit early this morning.